I originally imagined this as a narrative of our experiences. On reflection, what I'd like to do most is help you decide whether you'd like to visit Huatulco. To do that better I have organized this by topic.
This article represents the viewpoint of one person, traveling with his family for a single week in Huatulco. Naturally my comments will be biased. Here's a little information to let you imagine who is "speaking".
I'm not a travel
agent, but here's what I know. We bought
a package through Pleasant Holidays, and things went well. We also saw that Apple Vacations is active
there. Of course you can book flights yourself,
or use any travel agent. We heard that
the number of direct flights has dropped substantially since "9/11",
but there are still some direct flights from
The airport itself is small but adequate, and Mexicana serves it regularly with modern jets, so if you
can get to
Where is this place and what's the layout? Look at any map of
There are many sites with maps. Here's one with a map of Huatulco.
The Huatulco area comprises 9 bays, a couple of small towns,
and 36 separate beaches separated by rocky areas. The beaches themselves vary in size,
steepness, and the texture of the sand.
In front of the central group of resorts in
Inland from the bays the land becomes mountainous. These appear to be old mountains, with rounded edges rather than jagged peaks. The nearby hills look only a couple of thousand feet tall, but higher peaks were visible. There are two year-round rivers which bound the eastern and western edges of Huatulco, as well as many seasonal washes.
Huatulco has very definite wet and dry seasons, with tropical temperatures. We experienced 80 to 90 degree temperatures, with a couple of cloudy days but no rain. This is apparently typical. Water temperatures must have been in the low 80's, but that's a guess. It felt cool going in, but you could stay in the water quite a long time without feeling chilled at all.
The rains start between May and July, and continue through October. Contrary to what one author wrote, the rains tend to be heavy but few (perhaps 15 rains per year) and last for several hours. We were told that the very first rain causes the jungle to turn green within days. It then stays lush until the dry season begins, when the foliage drops and the landscape turns to gray-brown until the next rains.
I found (after the trip, unfortunately) some good climate information at tomzap.com.
Again, I'm not a travel agent. This is just the small bit that I observed
and read. The designated luxury resort
area is
There are many other places to stay in Huatulco. I'm sure that if you dig you can find a range of reasonable prices. It depends how close to the beaches you need to be, and what your idea of acceptable comfort is.
One more comment. Many places here offer all-inclusive plans, and some of those make the plan optional. It is said that the plans are a good deal even if you don't use every amenity and eat every meal on site. Still if you prefer to use your hotel as a base and spend all of your time elsewhere, you might not want such a plan.
The restaurants in Huatulco tell the story of a resort in its formative years. We were generally disappointed in the Barceló, but happy everywhere else we ate. Our comments are not meant to cover all the options - we were only there a week.
Speaking of risk, let me address
the common fears of folks from the
As always, my comments are limited by what I observed in one low-key week.
Sailing: many resorts have small boats which can be borrowed or rented. I didn't see a lot of large boats. Conditions are nice, with enough wind to move well and modest waves. Most bays big enough to sail in are open to the Pacific, so there are probably some days when things get rough. The big issue here is to ensure that you will have access to a decent boat. Check with your resort about what they actually have on hand, or be prepared to pay substantial prices.
Kayaking: Plastic kayaks are widely available. Fun to cruise the bay in, but if you are accustomed to high-end equipment you may be disappointed.
Snorkeling:
Excellent, with caveats. Fish
life is abundant, varied, and colorful.
Both on our tour of the bays (see below) and right in front of the
hotel, there were nice spots with plenty to see in water from 3 feet to 20 feet
deep. Some areas have coral reef and
others just have good rock-based habitats.
We didn't see the variety of corals here that you might see in the
Scuba: has to be good, but we didn't try.
Surfing/boogie boards/body surfing: Where we were, the waves were too small and the beaches too steep for these activities. We were told that one of the easternmost beaches had decent boogie boarding. For surfing, all sources recommend Puerto Escondido which is some distance west of Huatulco and has a southwestern exposure.
Fishing: another thing we didn't try, but there are many boats available. Some are large, and can be booked through the big tour operators at rates which seemed high to my inexperienced eyes. The cheaper way is to let one of the guys who walk the beach hook you up with a smaller boat. They appear to be set up for 4 to 6 customers. They are equally willing to use these boats to do a custom tour of the bays for your party, or to take you somewhere for snorkeling.
Water skiing, parasailing, etc.: We didn't see any of this. Maybe if you ask.
Jet skis: These are available, but I didn't see anyone rent one. Just as well. I might have started throwing rocks if they ruined the peacefulness of the bay.
When we arrived at the hotel, our tour operator showed us a big book describing various tours we could book. We selected two. A more adventurous traveler might do some of these things more independently or more cheaply, but we were happy with what we did. Well, mostly.
They say you haven't seen Huatulco if you haven't seen the bays. Excuse me while I fall completely into "this is what I did on my vacation" mode.
The tour started with a van ride to
Huatulco does have a beautiful coastline. It would be best in the wet season with green foliage on all the trees, but even in February alternating rocky and sandy sections were interesting, and the missing foliage made the occasional large cacti stand out from the gray trees. We stopped once to observe two humpback whales, which came fairly close to the boat. We were also accompanied by a small pod of dolphins for a short time. Jim saw a ray in the water, and we believe it was a small Manta Ray, since it had the characteristic projects from the head.
Our first stop was a snorkeling spot with a coral reef in San Agustín Bay. Most people got a ride into the beach on the launch and eased in from the sand, but we went right off the boat and swam to the reef. Either was okay with the crew. There were plenty of colorful fish, but perhaps the most impressive sight was a large school of 6 to 8" fish at the edge of the reef. There were many thousands, swimming very close together so that you could only see a foot or so into the school. Swimming down into the school caused them to part smoothly, revealing that the school was in fact many feet thick. They would flow back into a single school when not disturbed.
As with many tropical locations, time is not the same here as at home. We made a point of returning to the boat after the announced one hour, but it was quite a while before the launch brought people from shore. We could have explored a second location which a crew member had pointed out earlier.
Back toward our starting point, with one more stop to make. On this leg I spotted a sea turtle swimming at the surface, allowing many others to see it. Turtles and their protection are a big thing here. We also saw another humpback. We heard that this is common, and also that it's rare this time of year. When not enjoying the quiet beauty of the sea life, we were treated to a fairly wild time on the boat. There was very loud Mexican music, to which some of the crew started dancing. It was quite a feat for them to do as well as they did as we plunged through some of the larger swells. A few passengers joined in as well.
Our lunch stop at
After lunch came the big surprise. No one had gone back to the boat yet, so Jim and I took a walk down the beach while Kathy stayed near the restaurant. By the time we turned and came back, the Tequila was gone! At first I assumed that it was just out of sight, waiting in a better anchorage, but that was just wishful thinking. The boat had gone home without any passengers. Some of the Spanish-speaking passengers seemed just as confused as we were. After a while we observed that a larger catamaran which had followed the same route was loading up. After some confusion, we determined that we were to return with them. We had left our snorkel and some minor valuables on board the first boat and feared that they would be lost. In fact, our things had been bundled into a large garbage bag with many other items, and everything was there. That determined, we were able to relax for the return trip and dismiss our thoughts of sleeping on the beach with the stray dogs and crabs, or trying to hitchhike back to the hotel.
Apparently the different tour operators help each other out,
and there was no need for two boats. We
just didn't know about that at the time.
This tour was a real winner. Our guide picked us up at the hotel, and he let us know that this was not just the ride to the start of the tour. He was our guide for the whole day. A second group didn't show up after we waited 8 minutes past the designated time, so we moved on. We stopped once or twice along the well-paved highway to see good views of some of the eastern bays, and then headed up into the mountains. The turn was just before Rio Copalita, the river which forms the eastern boundary of Huatulco.
The upward road is gravel, and has some pretty good bumps in spots, but as the main access to many villages it is kept in decent shape. It is a road where the driver makes a big difference. As our comfortable vehicle rolled up the hill at a moderate speed we were glad not to be in one of the local "taxis" which consist of an open truck where passengers stand around the high sides of the bed as the driver careens along.
Our first stop was in a small village where we saw tortillas
being made by hand, and had a taste. As
we prepared to leave, the other party caught up, by taxi (a normal car, not one
of the open trucks). They turned out to
be a mother, her two daughters, and another girl from
Our next stop was for a small snack and a choice of hibiscus water or coffee at the plantation we would see in more detail later. Then on to the cascades.
This was one of the most beautiful places I have seen. The waterfalls are not impressive in their size, but the setting is amazing. The river is surrounded with tropical foliage, watered by the river and by more frequent rains that the coastal area receives. In combination with the light colored bottom and partial sun, the water had a beautiful color from above. The water was chilly, but not cold enough to stop any of us from swimming. I could see ten or twenty feet underwater without goggles, and it would have been more if not for air bubbles from the falls. One of the charms of this spot is that the water flow is powerful enough to be fun, but gentle enough to be safe for most swimmers. There is a series of cascades, each with shallow water above and deeper water below. In places you can swim behind the falls, and there is a rope where you can swing out and drop into the water.
This place is so beautiful that I actually hope not too many people go there. Efforts are being made to preserve the area, but I fear that an excess of visitors would damage the cascades themselves, which appear to be made of accumulated sediment which might be damaged by too many hands and feet. The good news is that the locals are very protective of this little treasure. In addition to our tour guide, a man from the local community joined us, partly to see that the rules were followed. There is a locked gate on the road, and only approved groups may enter.
After a moderately strenuous climb back to the van we returned to the plantation. Here we had a meal of local Mexican foods which was very enjoyable. A couple of meats, salsa, tortillas, rice, beans, and more were included, with an optional shot of mezcal.
[Side note: Mezcal is the same as tequila, except for the name. Only certain areas are allowed to label their product "tequila". Like most drinks, it comes in a wide range of prices and qualities. No relation to mescaline.]
Finally, we toured a lower portion of the plantation. We learned about how coffee is grown, including some of the ways they control pests while keeping the "organic" designation for their products. There were also other tropical trees, such as cinnamon, cacao, and banana. We didn't make it to the upper slopes where the main crop is grown, but it was still informative. We also saw the production equipment which turns the raw beans into a finished product. At the end of the tour you have the option to buy their coffee beans for about $12 per kilogram.
That was it for the tour.
A long ride back to the hotel ended the day. Actually, there was one interruption. We were stopped by armed soldiers as we
turned from the main highway into the resort area. Apparently
There were another half-dozen tours which we didn't go on, though they may be great. I will chime in with one of the guide-book authors and suggest that you don't go on the tour which includes riding into the jungle on ATVs. Why add that noise and pollution into the jungle when there are other good ways to go?
What's this? An economics textbook?
Certainly not, but it may help you to envision what this area is like. Huatulco is under long-term development by a
central tourism authority, Fonatur. Their goals include creating a major resort
area, and preserving the environment and character of the area better than in
previous developments such as
What I see in Huatulco is perhaps typical of government-driven development everywhere. Things are moving forward, but not necessarily in a balanced way. There are well-built four lane roads with stop signs in places where there will be no cross traffic for years. There are buildings meant for retail stores which sit empty. An entire condominium building with provisions for a bar or restaurant on the first floor looks nearly abandoned, but it is being maintained. Some businesses are thriving and with others you wonder how they hang on.
If Fonatur and other agencies are
able to carry out their plans (especially a modern highway from the city of
What does this mean to you as a visitor in 2004 or soon thereafter? Good roads, safe food and water, and excellent treatment of tourists. Resorts which are very nice, but still finding out who their customers are and what amenities are important to them. Employees who have been adventurous enough to move to a new area.
In short, if you go with the attitude that you will enjoy what is best and ignore the rough edges, you will have a good time. If you want perfection, pay twice as much and stay closer to the beaten path.
It would be polite as a guest in
An interesting fact is that Spanish is not the first
language of everyone in
I'll leave it to you to figure out a strategy for your money, but here are some useful facts.
We had great experiences with almost everyone. There were a few Americans who drank too much and got loud, but that's the only negative thing I have to say. Guests, employees, and local residents were all relaxed, adaptable, and helpful.
For lack of a better place, I'll mention crime. As far as we could tell, there isn't any. I'm sure this isn't strictly true, but we didn't see or hear of even a minor theft. We felt safe everywhere.
We stayed at the Barceló, and didn't see much of the other resorts except their beaches.
Good:
Not So Good:
Your call:
Absolutely. You might get the impression from some of the
negative comments I have made that this vacation was not a success. In fact, we got the overall experience we
wanted. We mixed a range of activities
with some pure relaxation. We got a
taste of
Sure, some details were not what we hoped, but it was a
great experience overall.
Disclaimer: I wrote this page for the enjoyment of family and
friends and as a source of information for fellow travelers. I certainly didn't
do it for the money, but if you buy something through the links below I'll get a
kickback.
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Susana Trilling's book triggered this whole adventure. The food is delicious, and reading the book is an education, but Oaxacan cooking is not for the lazy.
Rick Bayless is recommended by one of my "foodie" friends for Mexican cuisine in general. | |
| The travel books we used are at right. Of course there are tons of others out there. For more, you can link straight to an Amazon search for books on travel in Oaxaca. |